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Seabourn Cruise Line

MV Seabourn Sun

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Reviewed by: Allen Whipple
# previous cruises: 8
Date of Trip: October 15, 2000
Itinerary: South Pacific

This is an elegant, non-glitzy ship which caters to well-heeled travellers on diverse itineraries. Our trip, Sydney to San Diego, took 3 weeks and resembled in itinerary the "line voyages" of earlier days, so the "port days" were far less important than the quality of life at sea. The quality of service in all departments and the running of the ship, as well as its cuisine, were exemplary -- really first- rate. But there were annoyances which rose to the level of real discomfort, in the layout and management of the ship and, sadly, in its passenger complement. The ship was overcrowded, the dining room so noisy that one couldn't hear a person across a table for six, and the line had recruited an enormous bloc of passengers from the UK who treated every meal like it was the last bagged snack before boarding the Ark.

The ship was very clean and well-maintained, but the line failed to deliver on many promised improvements. Most glaringly, the current-pool aft of the spa was not installed, and a much-trumpeted multi million dollar refurbishment extended only to carpets and coverings -- I think the money was divided equally between the several members of the Carnival group. Relatively speaking, this is a very comfortable ship for its complement. But there are quite few small, private areas for idle or indiscriminate recreation, and none of the public rooms (except the low-ceilinged and incredibly noisy dining saloon) are designed to handle the full complement of passengers. Most are intimate areas for dining, relaxation, or daily events like Bingo or afternoon Tea. The design obviously envisioned groups of passengers who took their leisure at odd times and in different groups.

The trouble on our cruise was that ANY event which featured free food or drink, from morning bouillon to midnight buffet, was thronged by hundreds of passengers, many of whom came early to get good seats and kept them until there was another feed later in the day. Many of us, particularly the Australians, were surprised to find a long "line voyage" so well-booked (the ship was entirely full). It was rumored that large blocks of cabins had been sold off at discount fares, primarily to British agents; indeed it must be said that this group did not look --- or behave -- much like the stereotype of tweedy and affable experienced voyagers which over the years I have come to associate with Commonwealth citizens. I don't mean that they were rude or unkempt or boisterous -- only that they didn't seem to mind (or even notice) that they were crowded out of various activities, or (as with ALL evening shows in the forward lounge) were shoe-horned in. It was standing room only for a third of the passengers, invariably, no matter how bad the show. The tiers and banquettes designed for comfortable after-dinner lounging became more crowded than an Iranian Airbus.

The best thing about this ship was its level of service -- simply superb, particularly in the cabins. And room service food was quite as good -- and (often) as prompt -- as that in the Dining Saloon. I didn't much like my table mates in the Saloon, but I might have learnt to if I could have heard them. So I ended up taking several meals -- with pleasure and few apologies --in my cabin or on its verandah.

(Occupying a verandah cabin on a trip across the south Pacific is doubly delicious, because with both the air and sea temperature at 80+ degrees and only the wind of your ship's passing, it is a great thrill to sleep outside. Your stewardess will bring you hotdogs and deck chairs from the pool deck, champagne and canapes or ottomans from the lounge, blankets and free whiskey. She will be honestly concerned lest you catch cold. The service is that good.)

And the shows were pretty bad. But they were free, so EVERYONE went. This didn't bother me much, but it was annoying (for example) to go up to the observation lounge for tea at 3:30 (early) and find not only all the seats gone but all the food too.

Be prepared to amuse oneself. Few sports-related excursions, but the Islands offer their own. The itineraries in the past have been packed full of ports-- so who needs lots on board?

I had booked this trip in the expectation that the ship, like most of "positioning" cruises, would be uncrowded and populated by seasoned, quiet travellers who prefer days at sea to touristy and grimy ports and foetid "coach" excursions. Instead it seems that Seabourn was willing to lower its prices (even eager! -- this cruise was sold out very early) enough to fill the ship no matter who... I know I sound like a snob. Well, I am. But I'm not a Xenophobe, far from it: the Australians on this trip (there were about 70 of them, and the same number of americans) were wonderful, bright, kind and clever people. But the greatest part of the herd on this ship were surprised that there was not a bigger show, a bigger casino, a six-deck atrium, or more free food, more often. They were entitled to their pound's worth, and they made sure they got it. But really they were on the wrong ship, because Seabourn -- or dare I say the C word? --decided they wouldn't run a ship at less than capacity, so they sold it off cheap. That wouldn't bother me in the least if I hadn't paid three times as much for quite a different ambience and experience. There were, to be sure, many pleasing oddities about this trip. For example: you couldn't get your wash done in one of the ship's (too few) self-service laundrys at any time except during mealtimes or if you stayed aboard in port (fortunately not a problem for me). But there was always a lively crowd in the laundry, the ladies who gladly spent hours knitting or perming or gossiping while the gents ironed their formal suits and shirts with skill and care. Quite social it was, and cheerful -- as if these were not passengers but launderers. People held seats for each other in the cramped and hot room, and were very helpful in monitoring machine cycles, and how long it might be before the gent came back for his unmentionables, and even in folding your things for you if you were a tad late. We were all on the wrong ship: I because I wanted a small string orchestra; they because they wanted a bowling alley. Neither of us at fault, just poor marketing, or management.It's hard to find the right metaphor, but imagine a strange mixture of the luxe and the lowly, run -- from far above -- by Leona Helmsley. The hotel is spotless and efficient, but no one is truly happy.