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French Country Waterways

r/b Esprit

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Reviewed by: Barbara Wolfe
# previous cruises: 7
Date of Trip: July 14, 2002
Itinerary: European Rivers

Our six night cruise on the Esprit was as fine an adventure in good eating and good wine as I ever imagined. The staff is professional yet friendly; they seem to be doing work they enjoy, and pass the happy atmosphere to the passengers. The barge is comfortably outfitted with adequate deck furniture as well as well appointed lounge space inside. A passenger can be very active, walking or biking from lock to lock, or completley relaxed on board as the barge follows the canal or river. The countryside is beautiful, rural France. The excursions to Dijon, Beaune, the wineries and chateaux were fun, and informative. Our tour guide, Ann Laurence Wupperman, loves her country and her work, and her enthusiasm is infective. The cruise was the best vacation we can remember. We did it in commemoration of our fiftieth wedding anniversary, and consider it a perfect second honeymoon.

Since the boat is a barge, there is only one large public lounge where passengers may relax and watch the world float by. Part of this area is the dining area. The furniture is well chosen, attractive and comfortable. The outdoor deck furniture is nothing special, but more than adequate. the deck at the forward part of the barge is the public outdoor area. There is NO promenade, pool or casino on board.

The food was incomparable. Breakfast features fresh daily French bread and traditional pastries- croissants, pain de chocolade, etc., as well as American style cereals. The pastries vary a little each day, as they come from a local bakery at 7am, wherever the boat has docked for the night.Yogurt, cheese and cold meats are also offered. Wonderful coffee, r tera if preferred. Lunch was served buffet style, with a warm meat offering, three salads made with fresh, fresh vegetables, and a "tarte" of some sort; pizza, quiche or other crust based delight. then the cheeses, three described and served at lunch and again at dinner. Dinner begins with an appetizer of fish, foie gras, perhaps a soup. Then the main course of meat and fresh vegetables, followed by green salad and three more cheeses. And a simple but elegant dessert. Red and white wine are presented, described and enjoyed at lunch and dinner. One evening we were taken to a Micheline awarded three star restaurant, and I found the food to be very good there, but not as imaginative and fresh as that on the barge. I ate everything offered on the barge, and am happy to report that I gained no weight. The meals seem perfectly balanced for taste and enjoyment, leaving one with a most satisfied feeling while not being over-stuffed. Hurray!

The cabins are small, but adequate. The bathroom and shower are small; one person at a time! There is a small closet, but adequate, two large storage drawers under one bunk, and space for luggage under the other. The cabin is intended for a sleeping room, and for that it is just fine.

The entertainment on the barge is provided by yourself and you fellow passengers. It's a good way to get to know people.

Excursions to Dijon, Beaune, two wineries and two Chateaux were led by our tour director, AnnLaurence Wupperman. She knows her native Burgundy, it's history and traditions. If there wasn't an excursion, we were able to walk from lock to lock, or to use the bikes along the canal path. There is no pool, no health club, and no children were on board.

All of our fellow passengers but two were celebrating their fiftieth wedding anniversaries, and the exceptions were celebrating their 25th, but were not that much younger than the rest of us. They were retired doctors, lawyers, military, writers, teachers and a still working landscape gardner. Yes, I'd be happy to have them over for dinner, but my cooking would be a disappointment!